Moderate Trad Routes, anyone?

[Robert Riversong]

Hi all,

Just discovered this forum. I've recently moved up to central VT and would love to discover local climbing sites - particularly moderate trad routes - and local climbers.

I used to climb with the Berkshire (western MA) mountaneering chapter of the AMC, but haven't had a chance to get on much rock the last few years. Finally got up to the Whitney-Gillman arrete at Canon Mt last year with my 24-year-old son, but backed off of the 1st-2nd pitch when I realized I was not in the right mindset and didn't want to push my limits. But I found a 3.5 Camalot on the bailout, so I guess there are compensations!

- Robert

[Nicole Ballinger]

Hi Robert,

Welcome to the forums! There are a few one-pitch leads a Branbury State Pary (Lake Dunmore). There's no guide for the area, but basically you just hike about 10 minutes uphill on a marked trail that leads uphill from the campground and then veer left towards the cliffs.

There are 2 cliffs... the right hand cliff has some routes in the 5.3 to 5.7 or so range that can be led with reasonable gear. The cliff is slabby, so the stances are easy.

The left cliff has at least 2 routes. One on the far left past the overhang looks dirty and unlikely... but it actually a pretty good 5.7 ish lead (can be done in 2 pitches for fun). To the right of the overhang is a left leaning crack -- 5.7 or 5.8 as well. The top gets a little smooth.

Hope this helps. Lower West Bolton in Bolton has some good moderates. Better to TR, IMO, but there are a couple 5.6 and 5.8s that people do lead.

Happy climbing when the weather warms!

Nicole Ballinger

[Robert Riversong]

Nicole,

Thanks. The last time I was at Branbury, the cliff trail was closed. And there was a sign in the parking lot that warned of vehicle break-ins. So, since my truck cap wouldn't lock I carefully wrapped a cable around it and put a padlock on each end - only to return an hour or so later to discover that I left the front door unlocked! But nothing was missing.

I'll have to get back and check it out when the weather warms up. If you ever need a climbing partner, give me a holler.

And...what's a choss communicator?

- Robert

[Ross Perry]

Deer's Leap in Killington (just east of the Mendon town border) has two good moderate leads. One is Center Crack (5.7***) with good pro and another is The Tree (5.4*), although the protection is somewhat difficult to place. The Tree also has a 5.6 finish (crack) near the top on the left. Enjoy!

[Leslie McCarthy]

Hey Robert,
I'm looking for climbing buddies. I climb after work at Lower West Bolton or Upper or the Quarry. I'm free most afternoons after 3pm.
Leslie