Smuggs recomendation

[md_rock]

Greetings from MD.

So I'll be heading north to Vermont for vacation/visit family next Saturday. My parents live in Franklin and my sister lives in Westford. I'll be in between both places while there and was thinking about bring my gear in hope that I could spend some quality time with my sister; however, I'm not sure where to go (Smuggs or elsewhere) as it seems there are NO guide books for the entire state. I guess most go to NH and NY to climb.

I'm hoping someone can recommend some climbs in the 5 easy to 5.5/6 range that we can lead climb, along with 5.7/8's for TR. I'd also be interested in bouldering locations as well.

I'd like to climb at Smuggs, I just don't know where to go there, how to get to the climbs (if there are even are easy climbs there), the beta on the climbs (such as topos) and the best way to get back off (rap or walk). From the parking lot, Smuggs looks as if it offers a lot of opportunities.

Thanks in advance for any beta.

Frank

[Travis Peckham]

Hi Frank,

Smugg's is not the best place to look for moderate lead climbing. It IS however, a very nice place to boulder. Most of the bouldering is within a few hundred yards of the parking area at the top of the notch. It's pretty much impossible to miss. New England Bouldering has guidebook info for the area, but it's not really needed.

For moderate leading your best bet is probably Lower and Upper West Bolton, Mt. Wheeler (in the North East Kingdom). A topo of Lower West can be found in this forum if you search for it... If you've not been to Lower West and are looking for a pleasant day to two of climbing, it's worth checking out.

Travis

[Travis Peckham]

Here's the Lower West Topo thread...

http://forums.cragvt.org/showthread.php?t=444

Travis

[Travis Peckham]

Here's some info for the Bolton Quarry too. Harder grades but almost all sport climbing.

http://forums.cragvt.org/showthread.php?t=359

Travis

[md_rock]

Thanks! I'll check out the links now. I guess Smuggs has a good bit of harder muti-pitch.
I'm attaching a photo (it's the only one I have here at work) of Smuggs. it's on the same side of the parking lot, to the left (if facing the cliff). is there a name for this section and are there climbs in this section (reguardless of ratting)? Sorry fot the small photo, only one I have here at work...
I'll see if I can remember to upload other photos as I would like to know where and what's up there. Is there anything accross Rte 108 from the upper parking lot?
Frank

[Travis Peckham]

Hey Frank,

This feature has a route on it called "The Beanstalker". I've not done it but it's two pitches and I've heard that one of them is particularly nice. It's supposed to be 5.8+, I think, but I've also heard that it's pretty bold. Derek will likely give his opinion presently... (lies, all lies ;-)

There are a bunch of other routes up in the notch, but you'll be hard pressed to find much that's easier than hard, scary 5.8+ with runouts, wetness and loose rock in a truly alpine setting. If you're not solid at leading 5.9 I'm not sure this is a great place to do too much climbing. That said there are some great routes up there if you know where to go and what you're doing.

Travis

[md_rock]

Thanks for the info. No i'm not ready to lead 5.9 at all. I'm just wondering so when I drive thru next time I can look up to see if any one is up there and point out the the wife (and who ever else is with us) what different fetures are called and where people climb.

I did read in another post there was a 5.5 put up. but I'm not sure where it's at, let alone find it from the parking lot. I'll see if I can find the post, maybe you can shed some light on it for me. also read about a 5.7 but that's getting a bit above/out of my leading skills. maybe if it's TR accessable, however from my memory, it did not sound like it was.
F

[Travis Peckham]

Lower West is probably your best bet for roped climbing in North West VT. Lots of good top ropes that are easy to setup and a couple of good 5.5/5.6 leads.

The Notch has good bouldering right near the road, but hiking up and climbing the cliffs is not for the faint of heart.

Travis

[Bert Severin]

MD - the 'new' first pitch of quartz crack goes at 5.5, 2 bolts and a medium cam or two. the second pitch is 5.7 with an assortment up to 2". The actual quartz crack is 5.8ish. There are bolt rap anchors at the top of each 25m pitch. It is straight above the parking lot. Follow a trail behind the stone kiosk uphill, then work right in easy drainages to the cliff base. 15 minutes will get you there - then follow the base for a minute to an obvious open, clean area where you will see two bolts on a nice slab. That's the first pitch to a ledge, the second 5.7 follows a right angling crack to a rap anchor. There is more to the left of the main face in Rubble Gully in the 5.6/7 range, but a bit more adventurous.

[md_rock]

thanks for the info guys...

Travis, the link to the topo was great. If time permits, I will be sure to go there and check it out. Can you provide me with an address or street name/rte. no.

Bert, are there bolts at the top of the first pitch? Also what can you tell me about this... I found this on another post of yours.
unnamed 5.5

Start 15 feet left and uphill from Punk’s Ladder at a birch tree. Scramble past the birch on the left to the start of the route at a crack just right of the birch. Wander past excellent holds and protection leftward to a bulge (pin), and then straight up to a nice belay ledge. (70’) Pro: thin to 2”
4th class off left and downward

Bert, Dustin, Ryane Severin, Leslie Thomas (2007)



I'm posting another photo, if any one want's, feel free to copy it and mark up different fetures/climbs on the cliff. would realy be interested it knowing what's there (easy and hard). thanks

[Travis Peckham]

Hi Frank,

Lower West Bolton is about a half mile up Bolton Notch Road from Rt. 2. There's a pretty obvious pull-out on the right. The trail takes you past a welcome kiosk and to the cliff after about a 3 minute walk.

The picture you posted is the Quartz Crack face. The Quartz Crack route takes a line more or less up the middle of the cliff to a corner below the huge roofs (many variations) and then does a wild traverse to escape out right at the top. Will all due respect to Bert (who probably knows the Notch better than anyone), I'd say it's pretty stout for 5.8. Perhaps "alpine 5.8". Be ready.Also- the upper corner (crux) tends to be wet.

Travis

[Bert Severin]

That's Stepstool, and its a nice climb although harder to find without the guidebook which doesn't exist yet. It's left of ENT gully and requires a 4th class downclimb or finish on Punk's Ladder to bolts. All 3 pitches of QC have bolt/rap anchors for one 60m rope.

[md_rock]

Hey thanks guys! looking forward to getting up there and messing around on something, even if it's just some bolders some where.

Oh I ment to ask, what's up at Hazzens Notch or around Jay Peek? Any thing worth looking at?

Bert is this something in the works...
...the guidebook which doesn't exist yet.

I'd be first in line for an offical (VT or Smuggs) guide book.

F

[Travis Peckham]

I don't believe there are any plans to make a Vermont climbing guidebook in the near future- and that's just fine with me. The fact is, much of our climbing is on private land with tenuous access situations. Even the climbing we have on public lands is at risk; I had some meetings with the Vermont Agency of Natural Resources as recently as last winter discussing the future of climbing on state lands (like Smuggler's Notch and Mashfield Ledges). The state has certainly had some concerns and, with limited funding to resource climbing management strategies, they've considered "broad brush" tactics. So far we've been able to hold things together.

I think the concern that I and many others have is that a climbing guidebook will hit the shelves of major metro gear shops and many people will come up to Vermont crags without a clear understanding of the access issues. If anyone doubts the "increased traffic theory" ask any boulderer in Smuggler's Notch with a copy of Tim Kemple's guidebook in-hand if they're from Vermont. Chances are they're not- and that's fine, but many of our other areas can't take the pressure that Smuggler's endures.

It's clear to me that increased load on our crags would invariably put strain on access and destabilize things. To anyone considering authoring such a guidebook- I'd ask you this: what's important to you- having a guidebook or having cliffs to climb on? I do think it is as simple as that. I'd also add that you might try walking a few miles in CRAG-VT shoes to see how we bust our asses to keep these places open. Our meetings are open to the pubic and we're always looking for people to get involved.

I look forward to the day when we have permanently secured access to all of our important climbing areas (viva CRAG-VT!). Perhaps then the time will be right for a guidebook. Until then, ask a Vermont climber- they'll tell you where to go and what's good to climb.

Have a great visit to Vermont- our climbing is badass!

Travis