Lower West Ratings

[DaveVT]

Hello all. Wondering if anyone can clue me in on some of the rateings for the cracks on A Wall (I think it's called) We have been TRing the three climbs, and we love the climbers right climb that goes out under the small, angular ledge then around to the flake. We are kind of learing by ourselves and are curious what grade we are climbing. The gym is one thing, but making plans to travel around to other areas and I want a better idea of what we are climbing out doors. Thnks.
DVT
BTW, we did some mock lead for the first time yesterday and couldn't remove a micro at the bottom of the right crack. If anyone is there with a tool.....just hang it on the sign or something. Thnks again.

[Travis Peckham]

As I recall (and it's been a while) the routes on the A wall are (from left to right):

A-Sharp (5.5) - Up the nice corner then, at the tree, hand traverse the sharp flake right to the top.

Highlight (5.12a) also called "Screwin' the Pootch" - The sharp, steep, crimpy sport climb on the left side of the face. The guy who bolted it called it "...the Pootch". The guy who freed it called it "Highlight".

A-Major (5.10) - The crack that makes up the left side of the "A". There's a direct finish that's a bit harder as I recall.

A-Minor (5.10-) - The crack that makes up the right side of the "A". Hard slippery start. Pretty much the classic route of the face. A nice steep finish on big holds.

Gates of Eden (5.10) - Bouldery start up to left-leaning ramp. Out right under overhang with finger crack undercling. Up steep, somewhat chossy rock to the top.

The big sharp flake on to the right of Gates of Eden has been led up and around into the ramp route to it's right (I led it about 10 years ago- someone likely led it before me but I have no idea who). It's pretty loose and scary. As far as I know it doesn't have a name and I don't know if I'd recommend it.

This is to the best of my memory. If someone has Bruce Jamison's topo handy, maybe they can send the "official" grades.

Travis

[DaveVT]

Thanks.

[Ross Perry]

Attached is an old LWB line drawing from Climbing magazine from '91 or '92, for what it's worth...

[Travis Peckham]

I guess I screwed up Hailstorm- I'm pretty sure there's another named variation there though. Maybe someone else remembers the name. A lot of things on the topo are listed as top-rope FAs. I know for a fact many of these things have been led. It's a shame that information is probably lost at this point...

Travis

[DaveVT]

The cracks on A wall seem like a great place to mock lead. We are comfortable with the climbs and good protection seems easy to place where you need it. Looking forward to getting more into mixed routes next summer. Is there a guide for the Notch. I heard about a 5.10 mixed route up Elephant's head. Anyone know a good source for that 411?

[Travis Peckham]

Hi Dave,

You're probably referring to the main crack system that runs up Elephant's Head. It's an area classic and a very nice climb. It is, however, what I would call "adventure climbing". There is some scary loose rock and decent runouts up high. I would not recommend doing this until you feel you are a competent leader at the grade and ready for a real challenge. This route is the "real deal".

I would recommend logging some time in the Adirondacks to hone your trad skills. There are a ton of routes over there that are appropriate for any level of aspiring trad climber. Upper West also has some very nice 5.7-5.8 trad climbing to practice on...

Travis